The Thakhek Loop, Laos: A Complete Guide

If you are looking for an off the beaten path experience and, at the same time, a great way to explore the rural side of Laos, you should definitely ride the Thakhek Loop. It was without a doubt the highlight of our trip through the country. For 450km, you drive through the most mesmerizing landscapes, between limestone mountains full of fascinating caves and unique rock formations. It is an experience that you absolutely should not miss during your trip through Laos. In this guide, we tell you everything you need to know about the Thakhek loop, Laos.
17° 23′ N, 104° 48′ E​

Overview

About the Thakhek Loop

The Thakhek Loop, also known as the Konglor Loop or just the Loop, is a multiple-day scooter trip through central Laos.

The official start and ending point of the loop is in Thakhek and the complete distance is 450-500 kilometers. It is a fantastic way to see the real, rural Laos and also a very unique experience, away from mass tourism.

Sarah on a motorbike driving the Thakhek Loop
Driving the Thakhek Loop
Thakhek Loop
Views during the Thakhek Loop
You drive through the beautiful landscape of central Laos, with the most dramatic limestone mountains and more caves than you can imagine.
Thakhek Loop map
Thakhek Loop map

In the center of Thakhek, you’ll find many places where you can rent a scooter for a small price. The local shop owners know the loop and will provide you with a map and all the information you need to know before you start your journey.

Along the way, there are many interesting stops such as beautiful caves and waterfalls. The highlight of the Thakhek Loop is probably the Kong Lor Cave, hence  the nickname Kong Lor Loop.

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Full guide + map about the Thakhek Loop

Thakhek loop Route

Most people take 4 days to complete the entire loop, although it is also possible to do it in 3 days, as we did. Don’t even think about driving the loop in two days, as this is way too short. We recommend you take it slow and spend at least 4 days on the loop, but you can as well take it even slower and spend 5 or 6 days.

You’ll have more time to enjoy more sights and be more relaxed without time pressure.

Thakhek Loop
Thakhek Loop
Thakhek Loop
Thakhek Loop

The loop is often divided into the following 4 parts:

You can ride the Thakhek loop clockwise or counterclockwise. The stretch between Konglor and Thakhek (part 4 in this route) is a very long stretch along the ‘highway’, which is boring and rather dangerous side because of the traffic that drives there.

Although it is the fastest way back to Thakhek, some people recommend driving counter-clockwise to Konglor and returning the same way, so that you do not have to do this part of the loop.

Ban Natane
Ban Natane

Because there are so many caves and waterfalls on the road, we decided not to stop by all of them and only visit the ones we thought would be the most impressive. We’ll list all the stops below and tell you a bit more about the ones we’ve visited.

Thakhek loop Map

Usually, any scooter rental company will give you a map and some information. They will also go over and point out several important points of with you. These are often different maps, but they always contain more or less the same thing.

Thakhek Loop map

Part 1: Thakhek to Thalang

Distance: 107 km I Drive Time: 3 hours

Highlights: Tham Nang Aen Cave, Nam Theun 2 Reservoir

Tip: When leaving Thakhek to start your loop, try to avoid the main road. There are two checkpoints where police will stop you and fine for whatever reason. By driving around the smaller streets you can avoid these checkpoints.

On the first part of the loop, you’ll pass many caves in different sizes and shapes. That’s why this part is also called the Cave Alley. All of them will give you a different experience. If you are a huge cave fan, you can stop by and explore all of them. We decided to only visit the largest ones, as we thought that if we saw a few, we’d have an impression of all the other ones. Not all caves are near the road; sometimes you have to drive a long, dusty road to reach them and it’ll take a lot of your time to maybe discover it was not totally worth it. 

According to other travelers, the Elephant Cave and the Buddha Cave are not worth a stop, while Pa Seuam Cave, the Xieng Liap, and the Tham Pha Nya Inh Cave might be worth your time.

By the end of the day, you’ll drive up the winding roads to the Nakai plateau, meandering through the waters and dead trees of the Nam Theun 2 Reservoir, until you reach Thalang.

Tham Nang Aen Cave
Tham Nang Aen Cave

1. Tham Nang Aen Cave

Tham Nang Aen is the largest cave in the first part of the loop. Here, you can explore massive and various formations and give free rein to your imagination. One part of the cave is illuminated with all different kinds of colors. It gives you a kind of a disco feel. 

Tham Nang Aen Cave
Tham Nang Aen Cave

We weren’t a huge fan of the different colors, but it took away the natural feeling. In the other part of the cave, you’ll find more natural light.

When the water level is high enough, you can enjoy a boat ride through the cave and explore even deeper parts of it. The whole cave is lit up and the boats don’t have a motor, which gives it a different experience than the boat rides through the Konglor cave, later on the loop.

Practical

Prices

Entrance Fee: 40.000 kip pp
Boat trip: 100.000 kip pp

Opening Hours

Daily: 08:00 am - 05:00 pm

Tham Nang Aen Cave
Tham Nang Aen Cave
Tham Nang Aen Cave
Tham Nang Aen Cave

2. Nam Theun 2 Reservoir

On your way to Thalang, you’ll pass the huge Nam Theun 2 reservoir. It is a man-made lake to control a hydroelectric plant. You’ll cross a landscape of endless blue water with dead trees popping out and reflecting on the water’s surface, giving this place something mystical.

Nam Theun 2 Reservoir
Nam Theun 2 Reservoir

There is a visitor center where you can learn more about the lake, the power plant, and the whole construction process.

We weren’t able to visit the center because it was closed at that moment. If you have spare time, you can also enjoy a boat ride through this mystical landscape. If you’re staying in Nakai, your guesthouse can arrange this for you.

Nam Theun 2 Reservoir
Nam Theun 2 Reservoir
Nam Theun 2 Reservoir
Nam Theun 2 Reservoir

Shortcut to Kong Lor

After you pass the village Nakai, you can choose to drive either to Thalang or take a shortcut directly to the Konglor cave. We do not recommend you take the short cut for the reason that this is very bad dirt road and you have to take your scooter in a little wooden boat to reach the other side of the Kong Lor cave to continue your journey on the loop. Many scooter rentals don’t even allow this.

Where to stay

On the first night on the loop, you can either stay in Nakai or Thalang. However, we do recommend you to stay in Thalang. Sabaidee Guesthouse is the most famous place to stay in the area. In case Sabaidee Guesthouse is full, Posy Thalang and Mind House Bungalow are great alternatives.

Part 2: Thalang to Kong Lor

Distance: 149 km I Drive Time: 4 hours

Highlights: Buddha Statues, Cool Pool, Dragon Cave

On day 2, you continue your way over the Nakai plateau. You’ll wind further through the waters and dead trees of the Nam Theun 2 reservoir. It is definitely an interesting place to drive through and it gets more beautiful on this second day.

Nam Theun 2 Reservoir
Nam Theun 2 Reservoir

Not much further you’ll pass the Buddha statues along the road, you can visit the Dragon Cave and take a refreshing dip in the Cool Pool. Then it’s time to leave the main loop and head towards the Kong Lor cave.

You can end your day with a Beerlao on the balcony of your bungalow with a beautiful view of the area.

1. Buddha Statues

A little further down the road from Thalang to Lak Xao, you’ll pass the Buddha Sculptures. You don’t have to leave the main road, because they’re carved in the sandstone rocks by the roadside. Impossible to miss and a nice addition to your journey on the loop.

Buddha Statues
Buddha Statues
Buddha Statues
Buddha Statues

2. Dragon Cave

Important! Don’t miss your turn to the left on a big intersection in the town of Lak Sao!

Special about the Dragon cave is going in and out of the cave. In the beginning, the ceiling is very low and you’ll have to walk bend over through loose sand for a while, to arrive in this massive ‘room’ with impressive rock formations.

It is not a very big cave, but it has many gaps and corners to explore, due to big rocks torn down from the ceiling and lots of stand-alone stalactites.

Dragon Cave
Dragon Cave
Dragon Cave
Dragon Cave

You can exit the cave the same way as you came in but there is a second, less common entrance/exit. If you climb on the rocks to the stairs on the right side of the cave, you’ll come out of the cave between some narrow rocks.

It is not very clear because it is overgrown, but there is a path that’ll lead you to the main road again. This ‘path’ is quite an adventure, walking over narrow boards, between, under, and over rocks, but it’s a fun trail. Be careful and watch out for boulders and rough patches.

In the wet season, this cave might be closed as it gets flooded.

Practical

Prices

Entrance Fee: 50.000 kip pp

Opening Hours

Daily: 08:00 am - 05:00 pm

Dragon Cave
Dragon Cave

3. Cool Pool

We didn’t make a stop here because it was not hot enough for a refreshing dip. However, if you have spare time, you can find some refreshments at the cool springs or ‘Cool Pool’, as the temperatures in Laos can be overwhelming sometimes.

We’ve been told it is one of the best swimming spots in Laos. Take a dive in this turquoise blue water, relax between the limestone karsts, and enjoy a little snack or drink.

Be careful as we read that there are local children trying to steal your stuff while you’re swimming.

Practical

Prices

Entrance Fee: 40.000 kip per person

Where to stay

Kong Lor is not only known for its unique cave but also for its cheap accommodations with beautiful views. You will find a handful of beautiful accommodations such as guesthouses and resorts. Be sure to book in advance because the rooms with the best views often sell out quickly.

We stayed at Konglor Khamchalern Guesthouse and paid 300.000 kips per night. This price is slightly higher than most of the other guesthouses, but still cheap and the view was priceless.

View from the balcony of the fields from Khamchalern Guesthouse at Kong Lor Cave with towering mountains in the background.
Khamchalern Guesthouse at Kong Lor Cave

Hotels

Our recommendations for an overnight stay in Kong Lor!

Part 3: Kong Lor Cave

Distance: 42 km I Drive Time: 1,5 hours

Highlights: Kong Lor Cave, Ban Natane Village

On the third day, you can visit the beautiful Kong Lor cave, the village of Ban Natan behind it, and enjoy the surroundings a bit.

Kong Lor Cave and Ban Natane

The real highlight of the loop is the Kong Lor Cave. Step in a typical longtail boat and enjoy a 7km ride through this natural tunnel in almost complete darkness.

The only light you’ll see comes from your headlamp, which makes it a very unique and mystical experience. In the middle of the boat trip, there are two illuminated parts in the cave. Here, you’ll get out of the boat (yes, your shoes might get wet) to explore this section by foot.

Kong Lor Cave
Kong Lor Cave
The second walking section of Kong Lor Cave
The second walking section of Kong Lor Cave

After beholding the massive and wonderful formations, you’ll continue your boat ride on this underground river. After a while, you’ll finally see the daylight reappear at the exit of the cave, where your guide will drop you off at the remote village of Ban Natane.

Here, you can choose to either walk to the village and meet up with some locals, or you can rent bikes to explore the whole area behind the Konglor cave. A bike route is indicated and will lead you around so you won’t get lost and find your way back to your boat.

Inside Kong Lor Cave
Inside Kong Lor Cave

This route will take you about 30-60 minutes. Your guide will wait for you for a maximum of 2 hours (if you want to stay longer, you’ll have to pay extra for your guide), but it is totally up to you. You can return directly to the beginning after you arrive, when you’re done walking around in the village after half an hour, after finishing your bike tour… You decide.

We think the bikes are the best option because, in the village itself, there’s not so much to see.

Practical

Prices

Kong Lor Cave Boat Tour:
- 1 person: 300.000 kip per person
- 2 - 3 people: 200.000 kip per person

Opening Hours

Daily: 08:00 am - 05:00 pm

Arrival in Ban Natane
Arrival in Ban Natane, where you can see water buffalos
Rent a bike at Ban Natane
Rent a bike at Ban Natane

Where to stay

You can either stay another night in the beautiful bungalows in Kong Lor, or you can drive back towards the main loop and spend the night in Nahin. This is already 40 kilometers that you have to drive less the next day.

3 or 4 days

If you only have 3 days on the loop, you can drive straight back to Thakhek instead of staying another night in the area. It is still quite a long ride and this last stretch has a lot of traffic. Make sure you leave in time, so don’t have to drive in the dark! 

Part 4: Nahin/Kong Lor to Thakhek

Distance: 146 km I Drive Time: 4 hours

Highlights: Limestone Forest Viewpoint, Giant Wall

Today is the least interesting day of the loop. You drive back to Thakhek, mainly along the highway, which is the ‘most dangerous’ part of the loop. If you prefer not to do this and you have time, you can alternatively drive the entire loop back the way you came.

If you drive along the highway, you will first come across a beautiful geological wonder, where you can stop and enjoy a beautiful view. Then, it is about 100 kilometers along the busy highway.

In the end, you can make a last stop at the Giant Wall before arriving back in Thakhek.

Limestone forest viewpoint
Limestone forest viewpoint

1. Limestone Forest Viewpoint

This is a viewpoint watching over a geological wonder. A landscape of big limestone mountains, karsts, peaks, cliffs, gullies… all inaccessible for people, but inhabited by plants and animals adapt to live there. There’s a restaurant to enjoy a drink or a snack while admiring this amazing landscape, although the view a bit after the restaurant is even better.

If you’re brave enough and want to enjoy this magnificent view even more, you have the possibility to go for some ziplining over this stony forest. We didn’t have the time for the ziplining but we’re really curious about your zipline experiences. 

Limestone forest viewpoint
Limestone forest viewpoint

2. Giant Wall

One of the most bizarre things we’ve seen on the loop, if not just the most, was definitely the Giant wall. This 16-meter-high wall-ish rock formation is a thousand, maybe a million-year mystery. It is still unknown if this is a geological wonder or built by a former civilization. Driving even further towards Thakhek, you’ll see more pieces of this mysterious wall on the side of the road.

Practical Information

Renting a Motorbike

In the center of Thakhek, you’ll find many places where you can rent a scooter for a small price. Your accommodation can often also arrange a motorbike for you.
Some well-known motorbike rentals in Thakhek are

  • Mad Monkey Motorcycle
  • Wang Wang Motor Rental
  • PokemonGo Motorbike Rental
  • Mixay Thakhek Motor Rental

Because the loop is increasing in popularity, we recommend that you reserve a motorbike in advance, especially during the high season. If you didn’t make a reservation in advance, make sure you arrive one day early in Thakhek to reserve one or go very early in the morning.

You can choose between fully automatic and semi-automatic motorbikes. The semi-automatic is cheaper than fully automatic, but then you have to switch gears yourself. So, if you have no experience with this, we recommend that you get a full automatic.

Prices for a motorbike vary between 150.000 – 350.000 kip per day (until closing time, not 24 hours!).

Thakhek Loop
Thakhek Loop

What to pack

  • Bring a small backpack with only the essentials (clothes, underwear, toiletries). You can leave your big backpacks at the scooter rental or your ho(s)tel in Thakhek.
  • Warm (and rainy) clothes. It can be very cold on the road and during the night.
  • Sunglasses (let’s hope for the sun) and a scarf or mouth mask. The main road is paved and easy to drive but some parts and access roads of sights can be really dusty.
  • Don’t forget your swimwear and towel if you’re up for a little swim.
  • Bring slippers, but don’t wear them on your scooter.
  • International driver license. When you are checked by the police, they will always ask for your driver’s license. This gives them one less reason to fine you. Although there is a good chance that they will come up with something anyway.

Where to Stay in Thakhek

In Thakhek, you will find a handful of accommodations such as guesthouses, lodges, hostels, and hotels… Because there is not yet a very wide range of accommodations and the loop is gaining in popularity, we recommend that you book in advance.

Hotels

Discover the best places to sleep through our partners. Book your stay and enjoy their great deals! 

Thakhek Loop FAQ

How many days do I need?

It is possible to drive the Thakhek motorbike loop in just 3 days, like we did. However, we recommend you take it slow and spend at least 4 days on the loop, like most people do. You’ll have more time to enjoy more sights and be more relaxed without time pressure.

Don’t even think about driving the loop in two days, as this is way too short.

How are the roads?

Most of the roads on the Thakhek loop are paved and flat, except for a few short sections. Always pay close attention because there are sometimes potholes on the roads. There’s one part where there might have been landslides during the rainy season, making the road full of sand and loose stones, but this is only a very small part. 
Thakhek Loop
Thakhek Loop
There are a few sections going through the hills. It is a bit steeper here and when it rains, this road can become extremely slippery. Therefore, avoid driving in the rain or drive as slowly as possible. When it is not raining, this is perfectly doable at your own pace.
Thakhek Loop
Thakhek Loop
In general, there is little traffic on the route. Only during the first part of the run on day 1, you might encounter a bit more trucks on the road, fortunately, this is only in the beginning. Then, you drive almost completely alone on the road for the upcoming days. Only on the last day, do you drive on the highway and you encounter a lot of traffic. This is the most dangerous part of the loop, but you can skip this part by driving back the loop the way you came.
 
In short, the roads are in good condition and most of the time flat. You just have to watch out for potholes, for trucks at the beginning and at the end, and be careful when it rains.

Is driving the Thakhek loop dangerous?

As long as you use your common sense, the loop is safe. Drive carefully, slow down if necessary, and don’t take unnecessary risks. It is. as dangerous as you make it yourself. In terms of crime, we have not heard of any crime case.

I've never driven a motorbike before, can I still drive the loop?

The roads are generally okay and easy to ride, so it should definitely be possible. Although it depends somewhat on your ability and courage. Some important tips:

Drive slowely
Don't drive with anyone on the back, this makes it more difficult to control your motorbike
Rent an automatic motorbike
You are most likely not insured if something happens
Wear protective clothing, this is clothing that covers all your skin

If you prefer not to drive yourself, you have the option to join a tour or go with an easy rider from Mad Monkey, for example.

Tips for driving the Thakhek Loop

1

Always wear a helmet

'It won't happen to me' is a very big misconception among tourists traveling through Southeast Asia. Don't be one of them and please always wear your helmet. An accident happens faster than you think.

2

Drive your own scooter

For your own comfort, we recommend you drive your own scooter. Sitting on the back of a scooter is not the most comfortable position to be in for 450 to 500km. Besides the position, you’ll each have your own backpack with personal belongings that you need to take with you. More scooters provide more packing space. This brings us to the second tip: don’t pack too much.

3

Pack light

You have to drive around on the scooter with your own belongings for 3 or 4 days, so don't take too much with you. You have to carry everything that doesn't fit in your scooter on your back.

4

Fuel up regularly

Fill up your tank before you leave and refuel regularly on the way. Sometimes the next gas station can be miles away.

5

Bring enough cash

Bring enough money on your trip, as ATMs are even more scarce than gas stations on the way and we can’t promise these few ATMs aren’t out of order.

6

Bring a map

Make sure you’ve got a cellphone with an internet connection and download the offline map in maps.me before you leave. It is not a single-way road and missing your turn is not excluded. Always keep your paper map with you for all highlights and names to navigate easily.

7

Flat tires do happen (talking from experience)

Flat tires do happen to almost every tourist who drives a scooter abroad. The repair is cheap and quickly done (at your own expense) without contacting the scooter rental.

Motor problems (or others) are rather rare but make sure you save the scooter rental’s phone number to discuss the reparation options if they do occur.

These reparations are normally at the expense of the scooter owner on the condition that you contacted him about the problem before the reparation

8

Park in a safe spot

Always park your scooter in a safe spot and lock it properly. Unfortunately, scooter theft is not uncommon in Laos. We had a part of our scooter stolen.

9

Drive carefully

Mind your speed and do not drive in the dark. Despite the biggest part of the main road being in good condition, potholes are not rare and neither are flat tires. Besides the potholes and your tires, the greatest danger is animals and their unpredictability.

Cows and dogs are not scared of motorized vehicles. They cross the streets whenever they feel like doing so and even sleep in the middle of the road.

10

Honk to communicate

When you each ride a scooter separately, it can sometimes be difficult to communicate, especially if you ride behind each other. Agree on a certain code to get each other's attention.

For example, we had: honking once is 'look, I want to point out something' and honking twice is 'Pullover'.

Best time to visit

The best time to drive the Thakhek loop is between November and March, during the dry season when the temperatures are pleasantly warm and there’s usually no rain. In the mountain areas, it might get chilly at night in December and January. Know that the dry season is also a high tourist season. Although you will never notice a big crowd on the loop, accommodations and motorbikes can be sold out, so book in advance.

From late May, the rainy season begins and lasts until October. You can expect higher temperatures and frequent rain showers. Some roads may flood, landslides may occur and some caves might be inaccessible. It’s possible to drive the loop during the rainy season, but it might not be the best time.

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However, you still pay the same and therefore have no extra costs! So a win-win for everyone. This way, we can continue to add even more travel inspiration and tips to this blog for your next adventure. Thanks a lot!

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Last updated: July 9, 2024

Win-Win for everyone

Did you know that, if you buy or book something through our links, we receive a small commission?

However, you still pay the same and therefore have no extra costs! So a win-win for everyone. This way, we can continue to add even more travel inspiration and tips to this blog for your next adventure. Thanks a lot!

Last edited: 09/07/2024

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