Overview
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About the Bolaven Plateau Loop
Pakse is the biggest city in southern Laos, sitting at the Mekong River. On the east side of the city, you find this high plateau, called the Bolaven Plateau, known for all its stunning waterfalls. There’s not so much to see in the city itself, but it is the starting point to explore this unique plateau on the Bolaven Plateau Loop, also known as the Pakse Loop.
In Pakse, you can rent a scooter for a small price. The scooter rental will provide you with a map and all the information you need to know for the Bolaven Plateau loop.
On the Bolaven Plateau, you’ll find many stunning waterfalls in all sizes and shapes. You’ll also drive through enormous tea and coffee plantations, small charming and authentic villages and you’ll get the chance to take a closer look at an ethnical minority.
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Bolaven Plateau loop Route
You can choose between a big loop of 320km (3 to 4 days) or a smaller loop of 220km (2 or 3 days).
Apparently, there is one section of the big loop where robberies occur frequently. That’s why we decided to drive the small tour and make a little detour to one waterfall at the end of the big tour. We’ve listed all the stops we did and will tell you a bit more about our route. At the beginning or the end of your loop, you can add Wat Phou in Champassak to your route, although it is not directly on the way.
The loop is often divided into the following 3 parts:
Part 1: Pakse to Tad Lo
Part 2: Tad lo to Paksong
Part 3: Paksong to Pakse
Extra: Wat Phou in Champassak
You can ride the Pakse loop clockwise or counterclockwise. It is completely up to you which direction you drive. We chose to drive clockwise and kept the impressive waterfalls until last.
Fun Fact: You’ll notice that many stops along the Pakse loop start with ‘Tad’. Tad literally means waterfall.
Bolaven Plateau loop Map
Usually, any scooter rental company will give you a Pakse loop map and some information. They will also go over and point out several important details and places with you. These are often different maps, but they always contain more or less the same thing.
Part 1: Pakse to Tad Lo
Distance: 85 km I Drive Time: 2-3 hours
Highlights: Tad Pasaum, Mr. Viengs Coffee Plantation, Tad Soung, Tad Lo
1. Tad Pasuam
Tad Pasuam is not a very impressive waterfall, but it is a nice stop to break the longer drive to the next stop. There used to be a resort here, but it never reopened after Covid. You can still visit the waterfalls nowadays. The road there is not paved and not in perfect condition, but it is only a short distance.
2. Mr. Vieng coffee plantation
Mr. Vieng is the proud owner of a homestay, bar/restaurant and a huge coffee plantation. You can stop here to enjoy a delicious local, self-grown coffee and a tour around his plantation. Mr. Vieng is a very friendly farmer that speaks good English and will tell you more about the different kinds of coffee he grows on his plantation and the whole growing and harvest process from seed till cup. It is a very pleasant and educational stop on the Pakse loop. You can even spend the night here if you’d like to.
Practical
Guided tour (1hr): 50.000 kip pp
Daily: 08:00 am - 06:00 pm
3. Tad Soung
Tad Soung is not so much spectacular or unique because of the waterfall, but because of the view you have here. During the day, there’s not much water falling down, as the dam is closed. This makes it the ideal spot to sit and relax on top of a waterfall with an incredible view. Don’t walk too close to the edge as it is incredibly high and we don’t want you to fall off.
We were told that the dam opens at 4pm, but it doesn’t happen every day because it didn’t happen when we were there. So we actually can’t tell you when or if the dam opens.
Note: The pin on Google Maps is wrong. If you want to navigate to the top of the waterfall, you should go to this point and continue the road that is not known by Google, straight to the waterfall. The parking lot is indicated, but there’s no correct navigation to this point.
Practical
Parking: 10.000 kip
Unkown
4. Tad Lo
Tad Lo is a small village where you’ll find some restaurants and a few guesthouses to stay the night. In this village, you find two waterfalls: Tad Hang and Tad Lo. You can easily walk to both these waterfalls and enjoy a refreshing swim. In front of Tad Lo, there’s a free wooden bridge to cross the river and to admire this beautiful waterfall.
Where to stay
There are a few lovely guesthouses in the village of Tad lo, where you can stay the night for only a small price. The most unique place to stay is Fandee Island. However, this accommodation sells out quickly, so you have to book well in advance.
Part 2: Tad Lo to Paksong
Distance: 65 km I Drive Time: 1,5-2,5 hours
Highlights: Mr. Hook, Agro Vege Farm, Tad Tayicseua
1. Mr Hook Minority Village
In Thateng, you can meet mr. Hook. This man will tell you more about the ethnical minority and bring you to their village. Make sure you have enough time as the whole visit will take a few hours (3-4hours). Unfortunately, we didn’t have enough time to stop here. We heard from others that they loved it and think it was the best thing they did on the loop, while others didn’t like it all. We’d love to hear about your stories at Mr. Hook and the ethnical minority, so let us know if you were able to make a stop here.
Note: If you visit Mr Hook, you will have to add another day to your itinerary. You can then either stay the night at Mr. Hook or you can stay the night in Paksong and visit Tad Alone and Tad Tayicseua the next day.
2. Agro Vege Farm
The Agro Vege Farm is a place where we happened to stop on our loop and you will usually not see it on the Pakse loop maps. You will find numerous greenhouses where they plant vegetables and grow flowers. We found it very interesting to walk around, but also to eat something and have a coffee break. Across the street, there is also a cactus farm where they have ostriches.
Practical
Agro Vege Farm: 20.000 kip pp
Cactus farm: 30.000 kip pp
Daily: 08:00 am - 05:00 pm
3. Tad Alone
We visited this waterfall, but we think it is not worth visiting, as a big part of it is man-made and fake. It doesn’t feel natural at all.
Note: Getting to Tad Saulin & Tad Tayicseua is a bit difficult. From Paksong to Tad Saulin & Tad Tayicseua, you should always take the bad dirt road that goes along Tad Alone. Even though it is only a small section, you should NOT drive the road between Tad Tayicseua and Tad Katamtok. The road here mainly consists of deep and loose sand and is not accessible by motorbike. So from the other side, it is just impossible to reach Tad Saulin.
4. Tad Saulin & Tad Tayicseua
We really recommend stopping at Tad Saulin to visit Tad Tayicseua (also written Tad Tayicsua), but only during rainy season or the first half of dry season. Sarah visited this waterfall twice. It was her favorite waterfall when she visited it at the beginning of December in 2019, but she was extremely disappointed when we visited it again at the end of January in 2024.
At Tad Saulin, you’ll find a beautiful area with multiple wonderful waterfalls. We think there were around 11 waterfalls, but we only visited the one we think it’s the most impressive. There’s also a really enjoyable homestay and restaurant. When you arrive at the homestay, you’ll see a platform from where you can already catch a glimpse of one of the waterfalls. Behind the homestay, you’ll find a trail to the waterfall area. The owner provides guided tours to the waterfalls if you want to explore several. We only visited the Tad Tayicseua waterfall, as the area is very large and we were running out of time. The trail is steep and slippery but totally worth it during rainy season. The ground near the waterfall is really muddy because of the splashing water, but the scenery is breathtaking. The massive waterfall in the middle of green grasses and pink flowers will make you feel as if you walk into a painting. Enjoy this gorgeous waterfall but be really careful when you walk through the grass as there might be snakes.
If you’re interested in visiting multiple waterfalls, you can spend the night in the homestay and take all time you need to explore the area. This place is so lovely, as it is really quiet and peaceful and there’s almost no one else around.
Practical
Entrance fee: 20.000 kip pp
Daily: 06:00 am - 06:00 pm
Where to stay
You can either stay at Tad Tayicseua homestay or you can drive back to Paksong to spend the night here.
Part 3: Paksong to Pakse
Highlights: Tad Yuang, Tad Fan I Distance: 49 km I Drive Time: 1-2 hours
1. Tad Yuang
Tad Yuang is a spectacular waterfall and definitely worth a visit. The first impression will look a bit touristy, as there are many restaurants and shops when you walk in. However, past these stores and restaurants, the landscape will soon open up into a beautiful green environment.
Here you are at the top of the waterfall, where you can either have a picnic and relax a bit, or you can go directly to the base of the waterfall. The first part of the walk down is really steep and there’s a tree blocking the path, so you’ll have to crawl over or underneath it.
This makes the trail quite an adventure. At the end of the trail, you’ll find a viewpoint where you can enjoy the sight of this impressive waterfall. Over here, there’s another set of stairs going even further down to the base of the waterfall.
We heard you can go for a swim but be aware of the current when you swim closer to the waterfall, especially during the wet season. However, if you’re not up for a swim, it is still a must-see on the Bolaven plateau as the waterfall fits perfectly into this wonderful environment and vice-versa.
Practical
Entrance fee: 20.000 kip pp
Parking: 5000 kip
Daily: 08:00 am - 05:00 pm
2. Tad Fane
For many people is Tad Fane the highlight of the Bolaven plateau. This double waterfall lays behind the Tad Fan resort, which makes the environment less pure as the surroundings at the Tad Tayicseua. However, once you see the waterfalls, you’ll be speechless. Unfortunately, as it is such a beautiful and well-known spot, there might be many other tourists around.
At Tad Fan, you can not only just admire the waterfalls, you also have the possibility to either zipline over the waterfall valley or combine the ziplining with some relaxing in a hammock 250 meters high or taking tea (or coffee) time to the next level.
Practical
Entrance fee: 20.000 kip pp
Parking: 5000 kip
Daily: 08:00 am - 05:00 pm
Extra: Wat Phou
After exploring the whole Bolaven plateau, you can either return to Pakse or you can extend your loop to explore the age-old temples of Champassak: Wat Phou. Champassak lies around 45 km South of Pakse.
The Wat Phou is an old ruin in the same style as the temples of Angkor in Cambodia. This temple lies on top of a hill, giving you a beautiful view of the whole surroundings.
Here, you can either start or end your Bolaven Plateau loop. But you better come here early in the morning, as it can be crowded during the day and the heat can be overwhelming climbing the stairs to the top of the hill.
Practical
Entrance fee: 50.000 kip pp
Parking: 5000 kip
Daily: 08:00 am - 06:00 pm
Practical Information
Renting a Motorbike
In the center of Pakse, you’ll find multiple places where you can rent a scooter for a small price to ride the Bolaven Plateau Loop. Many people recommend renting your scooter at Miss Noy and Mr Yves. They’re super helpful and every evening at 6.00 pm, Yves gives an extensive briefing with all do’s and don’t’s in both English and French, as he is a French-speaking Belgian.
You can choose between fully automatic and semi-automatic motorbikes. The semi-automatic are cheaper than full automatic, but then you have to switch gears yourself. So, if you have no experience with this, we recommend that you get a full automatic.
Prices for a motorbike vary between 150.000 – 250.000 kip per day (until closing time, not 24hours!).
What to pack
- Bring a small backpack with only the essentials (clothes, underwear, toiletries). You can leave your big backpacks at the scooter rental or your ho(s)tel in Thakhek.
- Warm (and rainy) clothes. The temperatures might change quickly, especially on the plateau.
- Sunglasses (let’s hope for the sun) and a scarf or mouth mask. The main road is paved and easy to drive but some parts and access roads of sights can be really dusty.
- Don’t forget your swimwear and towel if you’re up for a little swim.
- Bring slippers, but don’t wear them on your scooter.
Pakse Loop FAQ
How many days do I need?
For the small loop, you should provide at least 2 days, while for the big loop, you will need at least 3. Although you can certainly spend an extra day on both loops. If you want to visit Mr. Hook Minority Village, you will have to add an extra day to both loops.
How are the roads?
The roads of the Bolaven Plateau loop are generally in good condition. Some roads to the waterfalls are not paved, but these are often only short stretches. There’s one dangerous stretch of road on the long loop, but you can easily skip it.
Is driving the Bolaven Plateau loop dangerous?
As long as you use your common sense, the loop is safe. Drive carefully, slow down if necessary and don’t take unnecessary risks. It is. as dangerous as you make it yourself.
In terms of crime, the big loop has one section that is dangerous because of robberies. Always drive this part in group and never stop in this section. For this reason, we deliberately opted for the short loop and a small detour to the Tad Tayiscua. Yves van Miss Noy explains this in detail in his briefing
I've never driven a motorbike before, can I still drive the loop?
The roads of the Bolaven Plateau loop are generally okay and easy to ride, so it should definitely be possible. Although it depends somewhat on your ability and courage. Some important tips:
– drive slowly
– don’t drive with anyone on the back, this makes it more difficult to control your motorbike
– rent an automatic
– you are most likely not insured if something happens
– wear protective clothing, this is clothing that covers all your skin
Tips for driving the Bolaven Plateau Loop
Always wear a helmet
'It won't happen to me' is a very big misconception among tourists traveling through Southeast Asia. Don't be one of them and please always wear your helmet. An accident happens faster than you think.
Pack light
You have to drive around on the scooter with your own belongings for 2 or 3 days, so don't take too much with you. You have to carry everything that doesn't fit in your scooter on your back.
Fuel up regularly
Fill up your tank before you leave and refuel regularly on the way. Sometimes the next gas station can be miles away.
Bring enough cash
Bring enough money on your trip, as ATM’s are even more scarce than gas stations on the way and we can’t promise these few ATM’s aren’t out of order.
Bring a map
Make sure you’ve got a cellphone with internet connection and download the offline map in maps.me before you leave. It is not a single way road and missing your turn is not excluded. Always keep your paper map with you for all highlights and names to navigate easily.
Flat tires do happen (talking from experience)
Flat tires do happen to almost every tourist that drives a scooter abroad. The repair is cheap and fast done (on your own expenses) without contacting the scooter rental. Motor problems (or others) are rather rare but make sure you save the scooter rental’s phone number to discuss the reparation options if they do occur. These reparations are normally on the expenses of the scooter owner on the condition that you contacted him about the problem before the reparation
Park in a safe spot
Always park your scooter on a safe spot and lock it properly. Unfortunately scooter theft is not uncommon in Laos. We had a part of our scooter stolen.
Drive carefully
Mind your speed and do not drive in the dark. Despite the biggest part of the main road being in good condition, potholes are not rare and neither are flat tires. Besides the potholes and your tires, the greatest danger are animals and their unpredictability. Cows and dogs are not scared of motorized vehicles. They cross the streets whenever they feel like to do so and even sleep in the middle of the road.
Honk to communicate
When you each ride a scooter separately, it can sometimes be difficult to communicate, especially if you ride behind each other. Agree on a certain code to get each other's attention. For example, we had: honking once is 'look, I want to point out something' and honking twice is 'Pull over'.
Best time to visit
The best time to drive the Pakse loop is between November and March, during the dry season when the temperatures are pleasantly warm and there’s usually no rain. In the mountain areas, it might get chilly at night in December and January. Know that the dry season is also high tourist season, so you can expect bigger crowds, especially at the most famous waterfalls.
From late May, the rainy season begins and lasts until October. The waterfalls are much more powerful and the surroundings are more green and beautiful. However, you can expect higher temperatures and frequent rain showers.
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Win-Win for everyone
Did you know that, if you buy or book something through our links, we receive a small commission?
However, you still pay the same and therefore have no extra costs! So a win-win for everyone. This way, we can continue to add even more travel inspiration and tips to this blog for your next adventure. Thanks a lot!
