20° 13′ N, 100° 07′ E
Overview
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From Thailand to Laos by Slow Boat
To get from Thailand to Laos, one of the most popular ways is to take the slow boat to Luang Prabang. You will sail down the Mekong River for 2 days and spend the night in Pakbeng. It is not only a relatively cheap way to travel, but also a unique way. Along the way, you can enjoy the beautiful landscapes and see local Laotian life on the riverside.
The slow boat is actually a taxi boat that has been sailing for years and is also used by the locals. Along the way you will occasionally pick up or drop off locals, you will see children playing in the water and sometimes they even sell friendship bracelets.
To take the slow boat, you can either book a complete slow boat tour package from Chiang Rai, that includes transport to the border, across the border to the boat, and 2 days on the slow boat. If you prefer to save a little more, you can arrange your own transport to the border in Chiang Khong, cross the border yourself, grab a Songthaew to the slow boat, and arrange your ticket for the slow boat trip yourself. It is therefore a bit more challenging to arrange everything yourself and requires the necessary preparation, but it is certainly possible.
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Chiang Rai to Pakbeng
Chiang Rai to Chiang Khong border
Your last real destination in northern Thailand will probably be Chiang Mai or Chiang Rai. From here, you can either book a full package that includes your transport to the border and the slow boat, or you can book transport yourself to the border in Chiang Khong.
If you arrange everything yourself, we recommend that you spend another night in Chiang Khong, so that you can cross the border on time in the morning. If you have booked a package, you will be picked up very early at your hotel in Chiang Mai or Chiang Rai. The drive from Chiang Rai to Chiang Khong takes about 1,5 to 2 hours.
Crossing the Thai-Lao border
If you stayed the night in Chiang Khong, you’ll have to take a tuk tuk to the border crossing early the next morning, around 07.30am.
At the Thai border, you have to fill in a departure card and get your departure stamp. So far the easy part of the process.
As soon as you have received your departure stamp, you continue through passport control. After this, you have to buy a ticket of 25 THB for the bus that will take you across the border. This ride takes about 5 minutes. Unfortunately, walking is not allowed, so you are obliged to take this bus. If you have booked a package tour from Thailand to Laos, this ticket is normally included and you do not have to pay for it separately.
On the Laos side of the border, there are 2 ATMs where you can withdraw money. We don’t know exactly which currency because when we were there they were both out of order. You can also exchange money here, but only for Lao Kip. Paying for your visa in USD is the cheapest option, but unfortunately, you cannot obtain this at this exchange office. Paying in Lao Kip appears to be the most expensive.
So, it is best to make sure you have USD with you to pay for your visa. More about the costs further in this blog post.
At the Visa on Arrival office, you can find an arrival/departure form that you must complete before obtaining your visa. As soon as you have sufficient cash and a filled-in arrival form, you can go to the Visa on Arrival windows.
Hand over your passport, a passport photo, your arrival form, and the cash to the person at the Visa on Arrival Office.
Then you have to continue to the next window and wait a couple of minutes until you get back your passport with your Laos visa and your entry stamp.
Finally, you walk through passport control again and everything is checked one last time. Congratulations, you made it to Laos.
Tip 1: If you have booked a slow boat package tour, there may be a person who collects the passports and arranges your visa for you. However, we recommend doing all of this yourself, because they made us pay extra ‘commission’ compared to if we had obtained our visa ourselves at the window.
Tip 2: You can also apply for an e-visa online which will save you time, hassle, and probably money at the border.
Border to Slow Boat Pier in Huay Xai
From the border, you still have a short distance to the pier where the slow boat leaves. You can take a songthaew here that will take you there. If you have purchased a package, your transport to the slow boat is included. You will also stop at the organization’s office where you can eat a sandwich, exchange money, buy some drinks for the journey and a local SIM card.
Huay Xai to Pakbeng
If don’t have your ticket for the slow boat yet, you can buy it here where the boat departs.
The slow boat to Pakbeng is usually scheduled to leave at 9am but ours left an hour late, as it happens almost every day. At the boat pier, you can buy some snacks, drinks and sandwiches you can take on board as lunch. On the boat, you can buy beers, sodas, water and noodles in a cup, all at very high prices. So make sure you buy enough food and drinks in advance to survive the boat trip.
After 7 hours on the slow boat, you’ll arrive in Pakbeng, a little town next to the river where you’ll stay the night. Although it might take a while before you’ll get ashore, as everyone still has to pack their luggage and queue up to get off the slow boat. Chaos guaranteed.
Tip: In the morning, try to be at the slow boat as early as possible to grab the most comfortable seats. When you board, you’ll get a seat number but most of the time people do not stick to it. They pack the slow boats so full that you often don’t have much space.
Staying overnight in Pakbeng
Hotels in Pakbeng
Find the best places to stay in Pakbeng and enjoy a comfortable trip.
Pakbeng
Pakbeng
Pakbeng
via Booking.com
Pakbeng to Luang Prabang
Pakbeng to the pier of Luang Prabang
On the 2nd day, the departure of the slow boat is scheduled for 9.00 am and this time it only left half an hour late for us. You will sail with a different, smaller boat than the day before. So make sure you get to the boat early to get a comfortable spot again. If the slow boat was already packed on the first day, it will be even more packed on the 2nd day.
You will sail for another 7 hours to Luang Prabang, but we thought the views were slightly more spectacular than on day 1. Just before you arrive in Luang Prabang, you pass the Pak Ou caves on the right side.
From the pier to Luang Prabang
When you arrive at the pier in Luang Prabang, it’s the same, or maybe even more, chaos than the first day, trying to get off the slow boat. From the pier, you also have to climb a very steep staircase with your luggage. At the top, you have to buy a ticket for 40.000 LAK pp, for a songthaew that takes you to the center of Luang Prabang. Usually, they drop you off at the night market, from where you have to get to your accommodation yourself, by either walking or taking another tuk-tuk.
Well done, you survived the 2-day slow boat to Laos!
Hotels
Book your stay in Luang Prabang and enjoy this beautiful city!
Luang Prabang
Luang Prabang
Luang Prabang
Luang Prabang
via Booking.com
What does it cost
To save ourselves a lot of hassle, we chose to book a slow boat package tour from Chiang Rai to Luang Prabang and paid 1450 THB per person. It included all transportation (except for the songthaew from the pier to the center of Luang Prabang) and lunch on the first day.
These were the prices in 2024 if you arrange everything yourself:
- Local bus from Chiang Rai to Chiang Khong: 90 THB + 50 THB to the border
- Bus from Thailand to Laos over Friendship Bridge: 25 THB
- Songthaew from border to slow boat: 25.000 LAK
- Slow boat to Luang Prabang: 400.000 LAK (in total per person)
- Songthaew to Luang Prabang center: 40.000 LAK
Price for Visa on Arrival
The price of your visa on arrival depends on the currency you are paying in. All visas on arrival have to be paid in cash in either US Dollars, Thai Baht, or Laotian Kip.
USD: 40$ + 1$ stamp fee
THB: 1800 Baht + 40 Baht stamp fee (= 53 USD + 1,20 USD)
LAK: 1.200.000 Kip + 20.000 Kip stamp fee (= 55 USD + 0,90 USD)
As you can see, paying for your VOA is the most affordable option when you pay in USD.
However, your USD bills must be crisp (no tears, no cracks, no wrinkles, and no stains) or they won’t accept them.
Talking to other travelers, we also noticed that they are charging different rates sometimes, so it’s quite hard to tell you the exact price. On top of that, many travelers know that the stamp fee is not entirely legal, however, you have no choice but to pay it.
Our Slow Boat experience
Many travelers say that taking the slow boat to Laos is an unforgettable and unique experience. It is a relaxing and peaceful way to cross from Thailand to Laos. In 2019, Sarah already took the slow boat and thought it was a great experience. It was quiet on the boat, there was plenty of room to sit and you could peacefully enjoy the beautiful surroundings. She was really looking forward to doing it again. However, things were now a lot less pleasant.
When crossing the border, we immediately had the feeling that we were being ripped off when getting our Visa on Arrival. This is of course separate from the boat experience, but it already started with this.
We also did not find the boat itself a pleasant experience. The seats on the boat are actually old bus seats and are loose on the boat. So, they can put as many people on the slow boat as they want and they do put in as much as possible. Our boat was completely crammed and we barely had any space to move. All we could do was stand up from our chair for a moment. On top of that, the edges of the boat were too high, so we couldn’t see anything of the landscape while being seated on our chairs. Sarah sat on the edge of the boat for a while to enjoy the surroundings but was soon called off again.
The 2nd day, we had a different slow boat. A smaller boat that was just as full, but the walls were already a little lower. This allowed us to enjoy the surroundings a little more. Nevertheless, we found it anything but a relaxing experience and were honestly happy when we arrived in Luang Prabang.
However, we are convinced that it might be a good opportunity to get to know other like-minded travelers. We also think that how full they pack the slow boat, will depend on the period in which you travel. Finally, we may have been unlucky with the boat, because we heard from others that they were able to look around well. We have also heard there are more luxurious boats and river cruises sailing to Luang Prabang as well, but they come with a price. So, if your budget allows, you might want to consider this.
Laos and Thailand
Is it worth it
There are 4 different ways to get from the north of Thailand to Luang Prabang.
Option 1: You can fly directly from Chiang Mai to Luang Prabang Airport. This is the fastest, most comfortable but also the most expensive option.
Option 2: You can take a ‘sleeper’ bus from Chiang Rai to Luang Prabang. This is the cheapest option. However, according to many, it is a terrible ride of 16 hours. You probably won’t sleep because of the many bumps, potholes, and bends.
Option 3: From Huay Xay, where the slow boat leaves, you can also take a speedboat. The journey will take 6-8 hours to Luang Prabang. However, according to many others, the engine is very noisy and it is extremely dangerous.
Option 4: Take the 2-day slow boat from Thailand to Luang Prabang.
So, if you look at the other options, we would still recommend the slow boat, especially if you are traveling on a budget. Even though it wasn’t the most comfortable ride, it still is quite a unique experience and you should experience it at least once. It is the only way to see this beautiful part of Laos and also experience a bit of the culture of the country. If your budget allows, you can opt for the more expensive and luxurious boats if you want more comfort.
It is the ideal opportunity to slow down, do nothing at all for 2 days, rest a bit, and fully absorb the beautiful landscapes along the edge of the Mekong River.
Slow Boat Tips
Keep Your Slow Boat Ticket
On the first day, you get a ticket for the slow boat. This is also your ticket for the second boat the next day, so keep it!
Grab a seat in front of the boat
Try to arrive early and grab a seat in front of the slow boat. At the back is the boat's engine, which makes a lot of noise.
Wear slippers
You have to take off your shoes when boarding the slow boat. With a heavy backpack, it might be a lot easier to take off your slippers instead of closed shoes. Also, if you have to go to the toilet, you can quickly put on your slippers.
Bring food and drinks
You can buy water, beer, soft drinks, coffee and noodles on board. However, they charge high prices for this. It is therefore better to bring your own food and drinks. If you buy drinks at the shop at the pier in Huay Xai, they put it in a double bag with ice, so that your drinks stay fresh for almost the entire first day on the slow boat.
Bring some entertainment
You spend 2 days on a boat with not much to do. So bring a book, a power bank to charge your mobile phone, something to write... Of course, you can always have a chat with the people on board.
Slow Boat FAQ
What's the price of the slow boat to Laos?
The slow boat to Laos is actually 2 boats. Both the boat from Huay Xai to Pakbeng and the boat from Pakbeng to Luang Prabang cost 200.00 kip. The entire journey to Luang Prabang costs 400,000 kip.
How long does it take?
The slow boat to Laos takes 2 days. Both days, you sail for about 7 hours.
Where does the boat leave?
The slow boat to Laos actually departs from Laos. You first cross the border by bus, after which you go to the pier in Huay Xai. Here the boat leaves for Pakbeng, where a day later the second boat leaves for Luang Prabang.
Does the slow boat depart every day?
Yes, the slow boat runs every day. During peak tourist season, there might be multiple departures in the morning.
What time does the slow boat depart?
The slow boat is scheduled every morning at 09:00am, but almost never leaves on time. Try to be at the boat as early as possible to, so that you can choose a good seat. Especially if you don't have a ticket yet, it is best to arrive early to try to get a spare seat.
Can I get seasick?
The movement of the slow boat is calm and barely noticeable, so we think the chance is rather small to non existent.
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However, you still pay the same and therefore have no extra costs! So a win-win for everyone. This way, we can continue to add even more travel inspiration and tips to this blog for your next adventure. Thanks a lot!
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Win-Win for everyone
Did you know that, if you buy or book something through our links, we receive a small commission?
However, you still pay the same and therefore have no extra costs! So a win-win for everyone. This way, we can continue to add even more travel inspiration and tips to this blog for your next adventure. Thanks a lot!
